Chic Palermo Viejo is the place for cool restaurants and new design, San Telmo with its cobbled streets is one of the oldest neighbourhoods, and the delta river system just north of the city is a calm retreat of houses on stilts.
At one end of the country the mighty Iguazu Falls thunder through lush jungle, filled with electric-blue butterflies, and crumbling mission ruins lie undisturbed among the trees and vines. At the other, silent glaciers stretch endlessly before you, until they shatter with a roar and a splash into a milky turquoise-blue lagoon; world-class ski resorts overlook dark brooding lakes and forests that turn auburn in the autumn.
Drive the desolate Ruta 40 through the wild expanses of Patagonia where the only sign of life will be a couple of condors and a thousand prehistoric handprints on a cave wall. Whether escaping like Butch and Sundance, or seeking freedom like the Welsh pioneers, you’ll find a liberating expanse of nothing. Head east to Puerto Madryn for amazing marine life or travel in Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara’s tyre tracks.
From windy El Calafate, cross an iceberg-strewn lake for breathtaking views of the southern ice field, and later attempt an ice trek on the Perito Moreno glacier. Further south, Tierra del Fuego offers the ultimate wilderness and, as you take a boat trip along the Beagle Channel, you’ll feel like a true explorer.